Nobody really thinks about generators until the power's been out for two days, the fridge is warm, and the whole street sounds like a lawnmower convention. That's a rough time to shop.
If you're thinking about getting one before the next storm, good call. Here's how to figure out what you actually need without overbuying or underbuying.
Start with what you want to keep running
Before looking at a single model, grab a notepad and list what matters during an outage. For most Florida households, it's something like:
- Refrigerator and maybe a chest freezer
- A few lights
- Phone and laptop chargers
- Fans, or a window AC unit in one bedroom
- Internet router
- Medical equipment, if anyone in the house depends on it
Then make a "nice to have" list: the microwave, the coffee maker, the well pump, central air.
This list drives everything. Keeping the fridge cold and the phones charged is a very different job from running the whole house as if nothing happened.
Running watts vs. starting watts
Every appliance has a wattage label, usually on a sticker or in the manual. You'll see two numbers that matter:
- Running watts: what it uses once it's going
- Starting (surge) watts: the extra kick it needs to start, which is common with anything that has a motor or compressor, like fridges, AC units and pumps
Add up the running watts of everything you want on at the same time, then add the biggest single starting load on top. That's roughly the size you need. Leave yourself some headroom, because running a generator at its max for days isn't great for it.
If you can't find a label, the manufacturer's website usually lists the numbers.
The three main types
Conventional portable generators
These are the classic open-frame units on wheels. They give you a lot of power for the money and can handle a fridge, some fans and lights without breaking a sweat.
The downsides: they're loud, they burn through fuel, and their power isn't as "clean," which can matter for sensitive electronics.
Inverter generators
Inverters are smaller, quieter and much more fuel-efficient because they throttle down when the load is light. They produce stable power that's friendly to laptops and phones. Many can be paired with a second unit for more output.
They cost more per watt, and the smaller ones won't run big loads. But if your goal is "fridge, fans, chargers and a decent night's sleep," an inverter is hard to beat. Your neighbors will appreciate it too.
Whole-home standby generators
These sit permanently outside on a pad, run on natural gas or a large propane tank, and kick on automatically when the grid goes down. No refueling runs, no extension cords.
They're by far the biggest investment and involve permits, gas lines and electrical work. For people with medical needs, or anyone who simply can't deal with days of heat, they can be worth it.
Picking a fuel
Fuel is the part people overlook, and it matters a lot in Florida.
- Gasoline is easy to find on a normal day and hard to find right before and after a storm. It also goes stale in a few months unless you add a fuel stabilizer and rotate it.
- Propane stores for a very long time without going bad, and it burns cleaner. You'll get a little less power from the same generator, and you'll need enough tanks for a multi-day outage.
- Dual-fuel units run on either gas or propane, which gives you flexibility when one is scarce. A lot of homeowners land here.
- Natural gas is the usual choice for standby units if your home already has a gas line.
Whatever you pick, store fuel safely, in approved containers, outside the living space and away from anything that could ignite it.
Connecting it to your house
You've got two basic paths.
Extension cords. Run heavy-duty, outdoor-rated cords from the generator to the specific appliances you need. It's simple and cheap. Just size the cords properly and keep connections out of puddles.
A transfer switch or interlock. This lets you power selected circuits through your electrical panel safely. It needs to be installed to code, usually with a permit.
What you should never do is plug a generator into a wall outlet to "backfeed" the house. It's dangerous for everyone inside, and it can send power back into the lines and seriously injure utility workers trying to restore service.
Safety: the part that really matters
Every hurricane season, people are hurt or killed by carbon monoxide from generators. CO is colorless and odorless, and it builds up fast. The CDC's carbon monoxide guidance is clear on the basics:
- Never run a generator inside your home or garage, even with the doors and windows open.
- Keep it outside and more than 20 feet away from windows, doors and vents.
- Use battery-powered or battery-backup CO alarms in your home whenever the generator is running.
A few more rules I live by:
- Let it cool before refueling. Gas spilled on a hot engine is a fire waiting to happen.
- Keep it dry. Don't run it in the rain without a cover designed for generators that keeps airflow open.
- Point the exhaust away from your house and your neighbor's.
- Lock it down. Generators tend to walk away after storms. A chain and padlock help.
Pre-season maintenance
A generator that sat untouched in the garage for a year may not start when you need it. Early in the season:
- Change the oil and check the spark plug and air filter.
- Start it and run it under some load for a while.
- Drain old fuel or make sure what's in there is stabilized.
- Check that your extension cords and adapters are in good shape.
- Stock extra oil, since many units need an oil change after a set number of hours.
A quick word on battery power stations
Portable battery stations, sometimes paired with solar panels, have become a popular option. They're silent, produce no fumes and are safe indoors. They won't run a full-size fridge for days on their own, but for phones, CPAP machines, fans and lights, they can fill gaps nicely, either alongside a generator or instead of one for smaller needs.
For broader outage planning, like keeping food safe and caring for medical devices, Ready.gov's power outage page covers the essentials. And if the storm has already come through, my first 48 hours checklist puts food, water and safety in order.
Buy before the season starts, test it while the sky is blue, and you'll be the calm one on the block when the lights go out.
Sources
This guide is general information only, not legal or insurance advice. Policies and rules change, so check your own policy documents and current official guidance for your situation.